In Northern California there exists a relatively unknown surf area where 25 foot waves are notorious for crashing the shore.
Very few riders become big wave surfers; and of those, only a select few are willing to risk the hazardous, sometimes deadly, conditions at Mavericks.
While I’m not a fan of risking my life to achieve the ultimate high, I’ve come to the realization that some risks are necessary in life.
Without them, we stagnate and never become what we hope to be.
A few months ago I watched a movie on a flight called Chasing Mavericks, and was introduced to Jay Moriarity.
Jay was a soul surfer, and someone who sought to experience all the ocean had to offer. He had an unmatched respect for the waters he entered.
This is about more than just surfing. It’s about finding that one thing in life that’s sets you free.
He died a day before his 23rd birthday, in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the island Lohifushi in the Maldives, drowning in an apparent diving accident.
Jay went big, and set his sights as high as he could.
I often wonder how many of us can say the same thing about our own lives. Very seldom do I step outside my comfort zone and try new things.
There are many opportunities we have to ride the perfect wave — so many chances to live life to the fullest, but they remain missed opportunities.
The ultimate ride awaits us all in some fashion, but the question we need to ask ourselves is this — are we brave enough and willing to paddle out?